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Friday, February 4, 2011


The quiet village of Zennor on the north coast of Cornwall is known for its associations with the 20th century novelist and poet D. H. Lawrence, who lived here at Higher Tregerthen with his wife Frieda for 18 months from 1915, before being driven out by the dual antipathy of the local police and residents who took a dim view of the couple's unconventional lifestyle and Frieda's connections with enemy Germany - her cousin was none other than Germany's ace fighter pilot Baron von Richtofen, the "Red Baron".

© Photo by Tom Oates

Lawrence loved the "thin air" in Zennor but was unsuccessful in his attempts to establish a writers' colony at the spot with Katherine Mansfield and Middleton Murry, though he completed the novel Women in Love during his brief and troubled stay.

Nowadays Zennor is off the beaten track with only infrequent buses to Penzance and St. Ives.

Zennor's attractions include the Wayside Museum dedicated to Cornish life, traditions and culture, the granite stone church of St Senara and the spectacular cliffs of Zennor Head.

The painter Patrick Heron lived in Zennor as a child and returned n 1956 to take up residence at the "Eagle's Nest" - a house overlooking the steep cliffs. Zennor also has a strong legend of a local mermaid.

The Zennor Quoit is an ancient tomb (dolmen) with a roof slab said to be over 4500 years old.

Accommodation is available at the Tinners Arms (Tel: 01736 796 927) and a few small cottages in the village.

© Britain-Visitor.com

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